Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Talkin' Shop Tuesday - Finding It (Glossary Pt.6)

A jewelry finding is, simply defined, any component that is used to create a piece of jewelry. Typically, findings are broken down into three different types - functional findings, decorative findings, and hybrid findings.

Functional findings are those components that primarily serve some type of mechanical purpose in the overall design, meaning that they attach, secure, hold, or protect other components. Jumprings, headpins, and crimps are just a few examples of functional findings.

Decorative findings are those components that primarily create aesthetic appeal in the design - in other words, the pieces that make the design "look" appealing. A few examples of decorative findings are beads, cabochons, charms, and filigrees.

Hybrid findings are jewelry components that are both functional and decorative. Examples of hybrid findings would be toggle clasp that is also a focal component of the design or links used in bracelets or necklaces. Most findings have at least a variation on design that falls into the hybrid classification.

Today I'll be sharing some terms that relate to functional findings. This is by no means an entire list, and I'll be adding more either in future posts or in direct posts to the glossary found on this site.

Eyepin - A straight length of wire that has a loop formed at one end to which decorative stones or beads can be attached.

Headpin - A straight length of wire with a flat or domed end that is of slightly larger diameter than the rest of the wire. Its appearance is similar in structure to a very long, fine nail.

Jump Ring - A wire ring of any size, used for attaching jewelry parts. Jump rings are usually round or oval in shape, and the ends of the wire are bent together, but may also be soldered.

Crimp Bead - A metal bead used with beading wires as well as many beading cords to secure the ends of a strand of beads. The bead is pinched around the looped wire or cord and then folded to create a "crimp" of metal enclosing the two sections of the looped strand.

Crimp Tube -  A short metal tube used with beading wires as well as many beading cords to secure the ends of a strand of beads. The tube is pinched around the looped wire or cord and then folded to create a "crimp" of metal enclosing the two sections of the looped strand.

French Wire - Tightly coiled, flexible metal tubing that has the appearance of fine wire. It is used to protect stringing materials from abrasion by metal jewelry findings or sharps edges of beads or clasps, as well as to conceal the stringing material. (Also known as bullion or gimp.)

Bullion - See French Wire

Gimp - See French Wire

Pin Back - A joint, catch, and pin-stem assembly that is attached to a metal plate, and which, when affixed to a button, gemstone, mounting, or other component, allows that component to be temporarily attached to fabric. The most common shapes are a bar, and a round plate.

Post - A pin-like finding attached to an earring pad. The post is is passed through a pierced earlobe and secured by a clutch.

Split Ring - Similar to a jump ring but with a double loop of wire, creating a more sturdy connection for heavily stressed segments of jewelry designs. These are similar to the connectors found on a traditional key ring.

Shank - The part of a ring that surrounds the finger. The shank, in combination with the setting in which a stone is to be set are referred to collectively as the ring mounting.

Brooch Converter -  A finding used to convert a brooch into a pendant. The converter is seated over the brooch pin so that the brooch can dangle from a necklace.

Crimp Cover - A crimp cover is used to cover a crimp at the end of a jewelry strand. They are soft, usually round, metal beads that are open on one side allowing them to be slipped over a crimp, and then pressed closed, creating the appearance of a seamed bead.

Calotte - A type of crimp/crimp cover with an attached hook for affixing a strand of beads to a clasp, link, or other component. The calotte looks like a bead that has been sliced in half and typically has an opening in its hinged end or side (depending on its design) that the strand wire or cord is fed through and secured by knotting, or crimping. The calotte is then closed around the end of the wire or cord and the hook is used to attach the strand to another component. (aka bead tip, or clamshell)

Clamshell - See Calotte.

Bead Tip - See Calotte.

Spacer Bar - A flat component with holes which is used to keep strands of beads from crisscrossing in a multi-strand necklace. Spacer bars are usually made of metal, but can also be made of bone, wood, stone, or any other sturdy material.

Jasper - A variety of granular cryptocrystalline quartz (more specifically, chalcedony) that is typically opaque in appearance. Jasper comes in virtually every color of the rainbow, although it is more commonly found in red, brown, or yellow hues caused by its typical high iron oxide content. Organic material and mineral oxides are often found in jasper deposits, giving it interesting patterns, bands and colors. Jasper has a rating of 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale of hardness, and is classified as a tectosilicate. Jasper is the state rock of Massachusetts and was used in some of the earliest stone tools used by ancient man. Some believe that it has the ability to prevent deterioration of the body and mind, provide protection and encourage emotional grounding for its wearer, and even to help with drought by producing rain or finding hidden sources of water.  It has been used in some circles to treat tissue deterioration of the kidney, liver, spleen, stomach, and bladder, as well as to treat the loss of one's sense of smell, and to balance the mineral content of the body. While each individual type of Jasper has additional properties and uses, in general, Jasper is assigned to the astrological symbol of Leo and in numerology, vibrates to the number 6 (Service, Nurturing, Reaction, Responsibility). It is also believed to align the chakras, balancing one's yin and yang energy.

That's it for today. More terms and their definitions will be coming soon! Have a wonderful week...



Linda B said...

Great post. Are you on your way to writing a book? (Being nosey)

mysticwynd said...

No, lol, no book, Linda... just trying to compile a resource for others to use. I'm not a "video" type person (for tutuorials) so, this is just my contribution to the community knowledge base for now. Glad you enjoyed the post!

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