Monday, April 6, 2009

Bead Shapes

Sorry for the late post today - my daughter was a bit under the weather today and had been up all night with her 4 week old, so I was helping out with her two little ones so she could get some rest!

I promised you information on bead shapes, so I'm keeping that promise. I had found this great website on bead shapes a while back, so I'm going to cheat today and post the link to the site. The owner of the site did a great job of coming up with examples of most of the common bead shapes! There are, of course, more shapes, but this will give you a very good idea of what some of the terms and shapes assigned to the different bead types are.

Here's the link to the site!
http://www.mrbead.com/shapes.htm

Hopefully things will be back to normal tomorrow, so I'm hoping to be able to do a post on gemstone cuts and discuss some of my opinions on what the best cuts are for different jewelry designs!

Hope your Monday was a happy one!

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Easter Basket Shopping

Easter, for most Christians, and those non-Christians who celebrate the day as a spring holiday, is only a week away. Have you done your shopping for Easter Baskets or Easter Basket goodies for your little ones? This is one year I'm happy that I had taken advantage of the post season sales last year and bought ahead.

I have 4 grandkids now, so I have 4 children's Easter baskets to put together (I've never bought the pre-made ones) and based on some of the information I'm reading on the issues with children's product recalls, I'm wondering what's left out there to buy? I don't know what you've been running into when shopping for your kids, but my daughter related (very loudly) some of the problems she's had in buying even the "necessities" for her kids just this past week. Hair bows and those little non-tangle hair bands? Recalled... potty training seat? recalled... stuffed animal? recalled. Pretty much anything plastic? recalled... they're still on the shelves in the stores, but they get you at the cash register and tell you that you can't buy them.

Here's links to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission website and their lists of recalled toys - http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/category/toy.html and recalled non-toy children's items http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/category/child.html

Pretty amazing lists, don't you think? I want my grandkids to be safe and reasonably protected just like I'm sure anyone with kids or grandkids does, and to that regard I support the theory behind the CPSIA's recall action. Do I think they've gone a bit overboard? Yes. I guess I've always been of the mindset (probably because I was raised by a very overprotective mother) that kids need to be able to have toys to play with and learn from and that they need to be shown how to safely use those toys. And if you have young children, you need to be aware of what they are putting in their mouths. That is just common sense.

In my opinion, we need to find a way to bring production back to the US instead of relying on the non-existant or sorely lacking production standards of foreign countries that instigated this whole latest set of legislation in the first place. Didn't anyone put two and two together to realized that lower production costs overseas are lower for a reason? Why aren't there stricter design standards to help avoid some of these hazards? Or are we turning into a paranoid society who is heading towards no small parts on anything because our three year old might find a way to unscrew the screws on vacuum cleaner... or forget the requirement that testing be required just on items deemed for use by the under 13 crowd, because anyone with a child under the age of 1 knows that EVERYTHING goes in their mouth - unless of course, you're extremely vigilant and responsible - you know, like you should be as a caretaker or parent.

Again, I think it all goes back to common sense and that there is such a thing as being overly protective and pro-active. I'm not sure where the happy medium is, but I do know that my kids survived without these stringent laws, never had a broken bone, never got poisoned, never swallowed things they weren't supposed to, probably got exposed to more chemicals in the school cafeteria food than they ever could from the finish on a toy, and as far as I can tell, all three of them are healthy, happy, well adjusted adults. Some safety laws are wonderful - kids should be in car seats or toddler seats, seat belts can save lives, second hand smoke is dangerous, poisons should be labeled, pools should have safety gates. But again, isn't that all common sense?

I guess I find it hard to believe that our children's safety will be significantly compromised simply by them reading an old book, or playing on swingsets, or doing most of the things that kids do. Knowledge is power and perhaps the better way to handle things is to make people more aware of what goes into the production of the goods they buy and how those products can affect their health and well-being...and then let them use due diligence. The care and safety of our children's health (as well as our own) is ultimately our responsibility.

Am I sure that the stuffed animals and books and other little goodies that my grandkids will get from me for Easter this year are compliant with the new laws? No, but I feel reasonably sure that my grandkids are well taken care of and that their parents are on the ball and watching that the items are used properly - and that is good enough for me.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Paying It Forward

Today is Tangible Karma Day - a day to purposefully become aware of the needs of the people whose lives you are in contact with and actively do something to help fulfill those needs. I like the underlying "do something" - so many of us acknowledge awareness that doing something nice for someone else is a good thing...but how many of us really take the time to "do" it?

I am a believer in karma - that the effect of the deeds that you do will go full circle and come back to you. You know, the old "what goes around, comes around" theory. I tend to call it Universal Justice. To me, if I do things with positive intent, to do good to others, to respect life, to make the world just a little bit better, I feel like I'm sending positive energy into the universe and creating positive change.

I don't know how many of you remember the whole Random Acts of Kindness movement from a few years back, but I think it is soooo important to try to do positive things for others. Doesn't have to be anything big, sometimes just a smile at a stranger can make a world of difference in their life. So open that door for someone, give someone your seat on the bus or train, donate an hour of your time reading to kids at the hospital or visiting a senior citizen's center. Smile at that grumpy old man you pass every morning, hug your child the next time you're ready to yell at them because you're the one who's having a bad day. Call your mom/dad/child/sibling/best friend and tell them that you love them. Make someone laugh. Donate a gently used outfit to a homeless shelter so someone will have something decent to wear on that job interview. Invite that neighbor that lives alone over for dinner. Let that person with only two items go ahead of you in the grocery line. Give someone a hug. Help make someone's life better in whatever way you can... but really take that little extra step to "do it" instead of just thinking about it!

If karma is nothing more than feeling good about what you've done, isn't that a wonderful thing? If doing something nice for someone betters their life in some way, who knows what wonderful changes that will bring in the circle of life...be a positive part of that circle! I don't think I have to tell anyone how much negative energy there is out there - so make some happiness today! We're all in this together!


Friday, April 3, 2009

Finishing with Bead Finishes

Wow, where did this week go? And how did I get so far behind in my topic posts. I'm going to blame it on my need to be as thorough as possible, but... hmmm... am I maybe being too thorough? Not thorough enough? Poor choice of topics? More concise? Less photos? More photos? I'd love to know what you think so far. So, either leave a comment or feel free to e-mail me at sales@mysticwynd.com and let me know your thoughts!

I promised you bead finishes this week, (and a couple other things, but we'll get to them next week), so that's what we'll finish this week out with. I promise it will be an interesting week next week - I'm going to delve into precious and semi-precious stones and just a whole bunch of cool information on what is what and the different types of cuts and qualities.

Glass Bead Finishes

These are some of the more common glass bead finishes used in descriptions. Again, this is by no means a complete list!


Alabaster - A dense, milky effect similar to vintage milk glass.



Aurora Borealis or AB - A colorful, reflective, almost metallic, finish that is permanently applied to the surface of beads. Typically the AB coating is applied to some areas of a bead and not to others. Other names for AB are Iris, Iridescent, Rainbow, Oil Slick, and Scarabee.


Ceylon - A pearl-like, lustrous finish typically applied over a pastel colored base.


Color Lined - These typically are transparent glass beads that have a layer of opaque color applied to the inside surface of their drill holes. Also see Gilt Lined, Gold Lined, Silver Lined, and Copper Lined.


Copper Lined - Beads with a thin layer of real copper, or copper foil, applied to the surfaces of their drill holes. Also see Color Lined, Gilt Lined, Gold Lined, and Silver Lined.

Crackle - "Crackle beads" have internal cracks that sparkle with reflected light. They are created by heating the glass enough to cause it to crack, then re-heating the surface of the glass to create a smooth finish.


Etched - See Matte. "Etched" is also commonly used to describe beads with designs created by etching a matte finish onto some, but not all, areas of a bead's surface.

Foil Lined - These glass beads contain one or more internal layers of thin metal foil. Fine silver and gold are common varieties.

Frosted - See Matte.

Frosted Rainbow - See Ghost.


Galvanized - Galvanized beads are coated with a thin layer of metal (often zinc), which may be prone to flaking.


Ghost - Ghost beads have a matte aurora borealis finish. Also called Frosted Rainbow. See Matte and Aurora Borealis.

Gilt Lined - Beads with a layer of gold coloring along the surfaces of their drill holes. Also see Color Lined, Gold Lined, Silver Lined, and Copper Lined.


Glazed - A colored finish that is fired in a kiln. Glaze is more commonly used on ceramics, but also can be used on glass.


Gold Lined - Beads with a thin layer of real gold, or gold foil, applied to the surfaces of their drill holes. Also see Gilt Lined, Color Lined, Silver Lined, and Copper Lined.

Iridescent - See Aurora Borealis.

Iris - See Aurora Borealis. Iris beads may have more of a swirled finish than AB beads.


Luster Coat - One or several opaque, highly-reflective colors applied to the surface of the bead.


Marea - A gold-colored finish applied to a portion of a bead's surface. Also referred to Vitrial Medium.


Metallic - A thin surface coating of metal gives these beads their look, and may be prone to scratching. The coating may be simply painted on, or it may be electroplated.


Matte - Matte beads have a non-shiny surface texture. Other names for them are etched, satin-finish, and frosted.

Oil Slick - See Aurora Borealis.


Pearl Luster - These beads are finished to have extra depth-of-reflection, like a lustrous natural pearl. This is also called a glass pearl, faux pearl, or fake pearl.

Rainbow - See Aurora Borealis.

Satin - A soft, satin-like appearance with striations that reflect light.

Scarabee - See Aurora Borealis.

Silver Lined - Beads with a thin layer of fine silver, or fine silver foil, applied to the surfaces of their drill holes. Also see Color Lined, Gilt Lined, Gold Lined, and Copper Lined.

Stardust -as the name implies, these beads appear to be coated with shimmery stardust. The coating is a finely ground metallic coating that gives the appearance of silver dust, but the finish is smooth to the touch. These may also be referred to as glitter beads.


Vitrial - A silver-colored coating applied to a portion of a bead's surface.

White Heart "White heart" beads have a thin layer of opaque white glass along their drill holes. The outer layer or layers of glass may be translucent or opaque.


Acrylic Bead Finishes

While many of the earlier bead finishes can also be found on acrylic beads, there are a few that are specific to acrylics.

Both Wonder Beads and Miracle Beads are shimmery acrylic beads encased in a clearcoat to make them appear as tho they were dipped in glass. Vacuum beads are those beads that are associated with Mardi Gras here in the states. They have an almost mirror like finish and are very lightweight.

The sky is the limit when it comes to the choices of bead finishes available today. And I'm sure there is something out there that will appeal to your fabulous sense of style no matter what the occasion!

Next week, I'm going to do some posts on beads as far as their composition and their shapes, and then I hope to start writing about gemstones! Hope your week was a good one - this weekend, please be sure to check back for my day to day normal non-jewelry ramblings!

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Chain Reaction

Today's topic is actually a continuation of yesterday's topic regarding jewelry wire. Before I started designing jewelry, I often would find myself in a jewelry shop trying to explain what type of chain I wanted, and stumbling through a description because I didn't have a clue as to what the chain was called. I'm guessing, from my discussions with my customers, that there is still some lack of knowledge out there on the subject.

Variations on jewelry chain are as myriad as the imaginative ideas that their designers can come up with. Twisting a link, adding a link, mixing types of links - all of these processes can create unique and beautiful variations on some very basic styles. I'm going to provide you with some of these basic styles in this post.

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1) Curb Chain - A type of chain in which the links are oval and twisted so that they lie flat.

2) Ball or Bead Chain - Bead chain is a family of chain characterized by small round silver balls, which form a continuous strand of beaded chain

3) Figaro Chain - combination of three curb links followed by an oval cable link and has a repeating pattern.

4) Rolo Chain - A rolo chain is made up of symmetrical links (usually round) that are connected together.

5) Omega Chain - Unlike most chains which are a series of linked rings, an Omega chain is made up of rectangular smooth rounded metal plates set side by side and crimped along the ends onto a strip of metal mesh. The end result is a fairly stiff, yet flexible, circle which looks best worn high around the neck.

6) Venetian Box Chain - Venetian Box chain (also called simply Box Chain) is a continuous linking of interconnected six-sided, three-dimensional, miniature boxes. It is a strong and sturdy chain that holds pendants and heavier charms well.

7) Snake Chain (Sometimes referred to as Brazilian chain) Like the omega chain, the snake chain is also not made up of traditional linked rings. It is instead of made up of round wavy smooth metal plates joined so that it forms a flexible tube. The end result looks like a smooth, sleek snake skin from the wavy joins. The distinguishing difference between the snake chain and the Omega chain is that the Omega chain is made up of non-wavy smooth metal discs or plates.

8) Byzantine Chain - Two pairs of oval-shaped links are linked together. Each pair is then parted to allow a large thick oval link to be attached to the other pair, resulting in an intricate, sturdy design.

9) Cable Chain - Cable chain is comprised of flat oval interlocking links with alternating links turned 180°. This chain comes in a range of widths with the smaller ones generally more favored by females .

10) Twisted Cable Chain - Twisted Cable Chain is contructed the same way as regular cable chain, however the individual links have a twist to them.

11) Herringbone Chain - A chain made up of short, flat, slanted parallel links with the direction of the slant alternating row by row resembling the spine of the herring.

12) Rope Chain - The rope chain is made of twisted and braided fibers. Known for its strength, integrity, classic pattern, and simplicity, the rope family of chains is very popular.

13) Wheat Chain - To make a wheat chain, oval and twisted oval links are connected and intertwined together. The result is an intricate chain with a great deal of visual texture.

14) Steel Cable - Technically not a chain, but this usually thick, stainless steel cable is a favorite for creating chokers and bracelets. It is also found in most other jewelry metals.

There are many considerations to make when selecting a chain. Will it be worn alone? Will it be strong enough to support the weight of a pendant? Is it flexible? Will it tangle easily? How does it drape? Is it heavy? Does it match the "feel" of the rest of the design? These are only a few of the questions you should ask yourself when shopping for jewelry. Keep in mind that when it comes to buying a chain for a pendant, most sellers are open to swapping out the existing chain for something more to your liking. The best thing to do is ask! Happy shopping :)

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Jewelry - Metal Finishes and Wire Varieties

No fooling, today, I'm going to discuss some of the more common metal finishes seen in jewelry as well as delve a little into some of the different wire types that are often the most important "structural" components of jewelry design. Let's look at some terms used to describe metals or metal finishes first. I'm including a photo of a jewelry piece with each term so you can easily see what I'm referring to!

METAL FINISHES

(These are only a few of the more common ones - it is by no means a full list!)

Anodized Aluminum or Titanium - Anodizing is an electrochemical process in which an oxide layer is formed on the raw metal allowing the surface to accept dye. This process hardens the metal and protects it from corrosion. After the anodizing is complete, the metal can be dyed. It has the look of gold or silver, but will never tarnish and is extremely lightweight and comfortable to wear.

High Polished or Mirror Finished gives the metal that highly-reflective and shiny look of elegant fine jewelry through machine and/or hand polishing.



Brushed/Satin Finish - Texturing technique using a series of tiny parallel lines scratched into the surface of metals with a wire brush or polishing tool.

Matte Finish - A matte finish is an even texture resulting in a non reflecting surface on the metal. This can be accomplished by sandblasting or acid dipping.


Hammered finishes are typically created by using a soft, rounded hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy texture.

Burnishing, in jewelry metalworking, is a process by which a smooth hard tool or metal pellet is rubbed against the surface of the item to be polished. This process flattens the high spots by causing plastic flow of the metal. Most burnishing is done using a tumbler filled with metal shot, burnishing compound and distilled water. It can be used on oxidated metals as well as non-oxidated metals to produce as shiny a finish as desired.

WIRE COMPONENTS USED IN JEWELRY

I'm going to give you some basics relating to the terms used to describe wire that is often used in the making of jewelry. Again, this is by no means a complete list, but should cover the more common terms you might run into.

In general, any type of plated wire (gold plated, sterling silver plated, nickel plated) is simply a thin layer of that particular metal alloy over a base metal usually of brass or copper. Gold filled wire is also a layer of gold alloy over usually brass, but the layering of gold is approximately 100 times thicker than with plated wire. Sterling silver wire generally is pure sterling silver with no inner layer. Copper, brass and bronze also normally are pure versions without an alternate metal core.

One of the most recent entrants into the array of wires used in jewelry design is Niobium wire. Niobium is a shiny-white, soft, metallic chemical element, which looks like steel in its unpolished state and like platinum in its polished form. It resists corrosion and is completely hypoallergenic, making it a popular option for people with allergies to other metals. It is stronger than most wires, making it a bit harder to work with than say, sterling silver half hard wire. Anodizing Niobium creates a wide variety of colors, but it is important to note that the colorization is a coating and scratches or nicks will mar the continuity of the color, although the color will not fade with normal care. It is also relatively expensive in comparison to sterling silver or other fine metal wires.

Memory Wire is a flexible treated steel wire that comes pre-shaped in circles. You can find it in sizes for rings, bracelets (large and small) and necklaces (large and small). It can be natural (looks like steel) or it comes in both gold and silver plated finishes. It is somewhat rigid and springs back to its original shape when expanded and then released.

Beading Wire comes in two forms - coated and plain. As the name implies, it is used for beading small holed beads such as seed beads, bugle beads, crystals, etc. The coated version usually It consists of a core of intertwined strands of steel coated in nylon. Plain beading wire is often a very fine gauge (I'll explain gauge in the next section) similar to sewing thread. Both types of wire are subject to kinking although some of the high strand count coated wires resist kinking much better and drape very nicely.

Wire Gauge

Wire gauge simply refers to the thickness of the wire. The higher the number of the gauge, the thinner the wire is. It is common to see wires from 9 gauge to 36 gauge used in a variety of methods in jewelry design, the thicker wires being used to frame, say, jewelry cuffs, and the thinner wires for intricate wrapping. For jewelry making purposes, 20 gauge wire is a very commonly used wire for shaping components that need to hold their shape under normal use, such as clasps or wire wrapped pendant bails.

Wire Hardness

All metals have a property called hardness. This refers to their resistance to bending. (Many people over 50 have the same type of resistance when it comes to bending over to exercise...hehehe).

Most jewelry wire is sold now as either dead soft, half-hard, or hard.

Dead soft wire is extremely soft and pliable. It can be easily bent and is excellent for making rounded shapes including a spiral. The disadvantage of using soft wire is that the finished piece can be bent out of shape if not handled with appropriate caution.

Half hard wire is slightly stiffer than dead soft wire. Half-hard wire is better for making tight, angular bends, for making loops in wire, and for wrapping wire around itself. Components made with half-hard wire are usually more permanent than pieces made with soft wire. Half-hard wire does not do a good job of making spirals.

Hard wire is very stiff and tends to spring back after being bent. Hard wire will not make a spiral. The advantage to using hard wire is that the wire components made out of hard wire are difficult to make but very permanent.

Wire Shape

Many people do not realize that not all wire is round. The shape of the wire refers to the shape of its cut end. Available cuts are round, half round (like a half moon), and square. The decision on what shape of wire to use is usually governed by the effect desired. Square wire can be twisted to produce beautiful visually appealing effects.

Well, that's it for this post. I hope you've got a better understanding of some of the finishes that are available for jewelry pieces and that now you will understand a few of the terms that you keep running into in Etsy (and other jewelry retailer) descriptions!

Here's a few examples of wire wrapping that is currently being featured on Etsy. Enjoy!

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